We have been in Cambodia less than 24 hours, and already I can say it is somewhat of a surreal experience. I do think that having come here via Shanghai has lessened the impact of shock this would have otherwise been for us.
The only direct flights to and from Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia, are rather inconveniently scheduled at the end of the day. Our flight out of Shanghai was at 8 p.m., landing us in Phnom Penh at midnite (less a one-hour time change). Though I had done sufficient research regarding the visa process, I was still a bit worried about this notion that we could obtain visas on sight at the airport. However, this is exactly what happened. For $5 (USD) each for the kids and $20 each for Jeff and I, within moments we had tourist visa stamps in our passports. We did have to pay $2 extra for Jeff because he did not have a passport sized photo with him. We assumed this was what they charged to take his photo. But no, they just charge $2 more because there was no photo. Hmmm. We then walk about 15 feet to the immigration guy who spends longer looking at our passports than the guys issuing the visa. He gives us the go ahead and we walk another 20 feet to where the luggage carousel was with our suitcases. We then proceed to customs, which is completely un-manned, so we skate on through and walk outside where the driver sent by the hotel is waiting for us. All of this took place in the span of 20 minutes from deplaning to being on our way to the hotel. Twenty minutes and about 200 feet. Wow. Clearly Cambodia does not care who or what comes into the country!
We had only one full day in Phnom Penh, which I am told is about right with kids, so we tried to hit all the highlights. I thought that walking to the places nearby was a good option, but soon discovered that it was rather treacherous. What little sidewalks there are generally are covered in garbage, or street vendors, parked cars and motobikes, people sleeping, extended store fronts - not conducive to passersby. And to step into the street to walk is taking your life in your hands due to the cars, bikes, tuk tuks etc. that are zipping in and out. This was one of the areas I felt Shanghai had prepared me well for. So we found our way to the world of tuk tuks - the taxis of Cambodia, but way more fun.
Standard street. Note the garbage - it is everywhere, everywhere. For more information on the Cambodia garbage issue see
Here's a tuk tuk. Very fun in a life-threatening kind of way. Open air, no seatbelts, swerving in and out of traffic consisting of other tuk tuks, bikes, motorcycles, cars, and big buses! And, like China, it is every man for himself!
We started our day at the National Museum of Cambodia which lived up to its claim as the home of the world's finest collection of Khmer sculpture. We then went to the market which was uneventful, except for the super find of Ben 10 pajamas for Max. They were $6 - or 24,000 Riels. (What an exchange rate, he?) We also visited the Royal Palace (disappointing since you cannot get past the front entryway and the Silver Pagoda (nice grounds).
Zach in the courtyard at the National Museum. Blue skies, hot but not humid weather - everyday!!
Sarah in front of the snack shop inside the walls of the National Museum property. This is a very high-end version of virtually every snack/food shop throughout Cambodia.
Sarah and Max in the entryway at the Royal Palace. Converting already...
The Silver Pagoda:
Lots of kissing going on here...
And the monks - they all wear these orange robes and flip flops. All over Cambodia, if you see a monk, this is what he looks like:
Below is a very interesting looking instrument. Max was mesmerized by the musicians. At one point we thought he had fallen asleep standing up with his eyes open!
Late in the afternoon we took a disturbing tour of the Tuol Sleng Museum. This was a high school taken over by Pol Pot's security forces and turned into a prison. It soon became the largest center of detention and torture in the country. The rooms, cells, equipment, and mug shots displayed throughout are testament to the horrors of what happened in the mid 70's. For those of you concerned, the boys skipped much of the museum and did not grasp what had happened there. Sarah, who was keenly interested, took in much of the tour, though we limited her exposure as well.
I highly recommend the book "First They Killed My Father" by Loung Ung, a survivor of the brutal Khmer Rouge regime of 1975-1979. Loung was 5 years old in 1975 and is a true survivor. www.loungung.com/
One of the more interesting parts of the day was the long tuk tuk drive to and from the Tuol Sleng Museum. To think that Phnom Penh is the most developed area in Cambodia, and to see how poverty stricken it is, I wonder what the rest of the trip wll be like?
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